Steamed Fish Head – Teochew Style

Saturday, May 28, 2011

What do char kway tiao, or luak, bak chor mee, and Teochew style steamed fish have in common, apart from being Teochew?

Don't know? What if I remove steamed fish from the list, and add or nee, chai tow kway and yam mooncakes? Is it obvious now?

Ladies and gentlemen, all these Teochew dishes have lard – lots and lots of glorious lard!

Wait a second . . . there's lard in Teochew steamed fish? But of course! It's not rendered liquid lard or fried bits of golden lardon, but strips of raw, white pork fat steamed together with the fish. Sadly, it's usually omitted nowadays because of the phobia of animal fats. Are you afraid of lard?

The lard for steamed fish should be the firm fat found just underneath the pigskin rather than the floppy, shapeless fat in the belly. That, along with pickled plums and kiam chye (pickled mustard greens), makes Teochew steamed fish Teochew . . . . Oh hang on, there's something else if you want uncompromised authenticity: Dipping the fish in fermented soya beans

Ah yes, don't forget the taucheo, which should be the light rather than dark type. For cooking, either would do but you'd want the less salty, light-coloured one for a dip.

Good taucheo is very fragrant and umami, and it brings out the sweetness of the fish. Clean tasting fish like threadfin or red snapper is dipped in taucheo neat, but fishier fish like big head carp or rabbitfish goes well with a squeeze of lime, some cili padi and julienned young ginger.

Besides piling a heap of stuff on steamed fish, Teochews also love steaming fish as it is, with nothing added at all. Sometimes, I kid you not, the fish isn't even gutted or scaled. I'm guessing only Teochews would appreciate such a peasant style!

And only Teochews – those who don't live in China but understand the dialect – would appreciate how hilarious Snow White is in Teochew. If you're one of these, please watch this video 'cause it's really funny, especially 1:32 and 2:42 which had me in stitches:



Check these out:
Photobucket
Mel's Comfort
Food
Blood Plasma,
Anyone?
Dumping Asian
Dumplings
Cheese is Good
for You
Are You Afraid
of Lard?

Sambal Kangkong and . . . God of Fortune

Sunday, May 22, 2011

Do you know that there's a connection between kangkong and the God of Fortune, aka 财神爷?

I'm guessing you don't, so here's the story:

3,000 years ago, China was ruled by an emperor who knew diddly squat about everything. As with all useless emperors, he had a wicked concubine, and his was called 妲己.

One day, 妲己 pretended to be ill and said she needed to eat 比干's heart to be cured. 比干 was the good guy who was trying to set the useless emperor on the right path, so the concubine – actually a 'fox spirit' in human form – wanted to get rid of him.

Fortunately for 比干, one of his colleagues cast a spell on him so that he could live after his heart was dug out. There were, however, conditions: Upon losing his heart, 比干 had to leave the city on a galloping horse till he was at least 2,000 miles away, without looking back.

The bad news was, the evil concubine/fox heard about the spell, and transformed herself into an old woman selling kangkong. 'Kangkong! Kangkong!' she shouted . . . . Oops, sorry, she didn't speak Malay. It should be '空心菜! 空心菜!'

Upon hearing her cries, 比干 turned around to ask her what 空心菜 was. As he did, he fell from his horse and died 'cause the spell was broken.

What's all this got to do with the God of (Good) Fortune? Well, the stupid guy who couldn't follow simple instructions was deified as said god after he died. Why? Because he was heartless, so he couldn't favour anyone and would always be fair. That, I suppose, outweighed his inability to focus and not get distracted!

I guess 比干 didn't learn from Lot's wife, who looked back and turned into a pillar of salt. Or Orpheus, who looked back and his wife disappeared into thin air – poof! Good thing he didn't or he wouldn't have the dream job he has now, working only 15 days each year during the CNY period – very cushy!

Check these out:
Photobucket
Tricolour
Steamed Eggs
(三色蒸水蛋)
Five-Spice Tau
Kee (Beancurd
Skin)
Housefly Heads
(苍蝇头)
Spring Onion
Pancakes
(葱油饼)
Braised Chicken
Feet in Fermented
Black Bean Sauce

Baked Cod – Easy Sam Leong Recipe

Monday, May 16, 2011

In 1950, New York Times science editor Waldemar Kaempffert wrote an article about what miracles the world might see in 2000. At a time when modems hadn't been invented yet, he predicted that access to The New York Times would be possible 'in your home, in the streets, in the trains and cars that carry you to your work, in the bargain basement of every department store'. Video phone calls, TV via phone lines, and faxes that cost next to nothing were also predicted. As was hair removal cream, though it wasn't foreseen that said cream would become a taboo for men: they'd rather die before they let anyone know they use it!

Some of Waldemar Kaempffert's predictions were spot on but there were others which were way off, like what he said about food and cooking:
'Cooking as an art is only a memory in the minds of old people. A few die-hards still broil a chicken or roast a leg of lamb, but the experts have developed ways of deep-freezing partially baked cuts of meat. Even soup and milk are delivered in the form of frozen bricks.

'In eight seconds a half-grilled frozen steak is thawed; in two minutes more it is ready to serve. It never takes . . . more than half an hour to prepare . . . an elaborate meal of several courses.

'Sawdust and wood pulp are converted into sugary foods. Discarded paper table [paper] “linen” and rayon underwear are bought by chemical factories to be converted into candy.'
Eww, candy made with discarded underwear? I'm sure someone somewhere in China must be doing it!

Not only has cooking not become 'a distant memory', it's celebrated by zillions of websites, food blogs and online forums. Cyberspace is overflowing with recipes, many with step-by-step photos or even videos, and online advice if you have any questions – all for free.

You definitely don't have to be a die-hard to try Sam Leong's 'Baked Cod with Marinated Superior Light Soya Sauce and Honey'. (What a mouthful!) In fact, by the time you say 'Baked Cod blah blah blah', the marinade's done. The fish then sits in the marinade for 15 minutes, and then it sits in the oven for 15 minutes. Cooking from scratch doesn't get easier than this, or better.

Whilst the fish is sitting here and there, you should sit too and enjoy a cold drink. And maybe contemplate what the world might be like 50 years from now? I'm guessing a frozen pre-cooked steak will still taste horrible in 2061.

Check these out:
Photobucket
Black Cod with
Miso (Nobu
Recipe)
Steamed Prawns
with Garlic
(蒜泥蝦)
Drunken Prawns
(Xi Yan Recipe)
BBQ Stingray(Sake Kabuto Shio-
yaki) Salt-Grilled
Salmon Head

Mmmmm . . . Marmite Ribs

Thursday, May 12, 2011


I'd intended to buy a jar of Marmite to make Marmite Pork Ribs only after I finished some of the sauces and whatnots (which were threatening to spill out of the kitchen into the living room). But my self-discipline crumbled when I saw what a great sense of humour the makers of Marmite have, as the commercial shows.

Love it or hate it? I'd never had Marmite before, and I couldn't wait to find out. dldl dldld dldl ldl dldld
I wandered up and down the aisles in the supermart looking for Marmite. I knew it had to be there somewhere because I had phoned earlier and made sure the supermart had stocks. It wasn't with the jams and spreads, nor sauces and condiments. Hmm, yeast extract . . . . Yeast? Baking products? Nope, not there either. Where else could it be? You'd never had guessed! Marmite, together with its best friend, Bovril, was sitting next to the cough syrups, plasters and ENO. Why? God only knows!

The best description of Marmite I've come across is from Reginald Hunter who said, during a Stephen Fry show, 'Marmite tastes like there's a naked man with hairy legs in your kitchen, and every now and again you take a plate with some toast, and walk onto his butt and go “Ok friend, do what you do best!”'

Was there any truth in what Reginald Hunter says? Umm . . . I wouldn't know. I've never had anything of what he described in my kitchen.

Does Marmite taste like, as a Steve Johnson article put it, 'faecal-brown . . . sludge of processed fungal industrial waste'? Hmm, not sure what those taste like either.

After reading the nasty insults about Marmite, I was a bit apprehensive about eating it, to be honest. I dipped the tip of a chopstick into the jar, and took a little lick of the black, gooey stuff, neat. Hmm . . . . It was rather like reduced fish sauce, which I'd made once by mistake when trying a Thai recipe. Both tasted kinda burnt and bitter, and were extremely salty – pretty nasty, in other words.

Marmite neat wasn't for me. Next, I tried the most popular way of enjoying Marmite: a wee bit of the yeast extract spread t-h-i-n-l-y on generously buttered toast. I took a small bite and . . . . Hey, it's not bad! The salt in the yeast extract went well with the butter, I thought. In fact, spaghetti tossed with Marmite and butter is delicious, if you believe the Domestic Goddess. It's better than bak chor mee, she (sort of) says in the video here.

The grand finale and highlight of my tasting session was pork with Marmite. The thick, meaty prime ribs braised with Marmite, sugar, honey, ketchup and Worcestershire sauce could be summed up in one alphabet: Mmmmm . . . . The sugar and honey masked the burnt, bitter taste of Marmite, leaving a sweet and savory sauce that was a perfect fit with tender, juicy ribs falling off the bone. If everyone ate Marmite this way, I'm sure there wouldn't be any Marmite hate groups!

And now, I'm ready for the gourmet version:
Marmite XO, anyone? . . . . lit tl lk dlkdl dlkdl dlkd dldkl lkdj dldk l
Check these out:
Photobucket Photobucket
Orange Glazed
Pork Ribs
Creamy Black
Pepper Chicken
Prawns with Red
Fermented Beancurd
Steamed Garlic
Pork Ribs

Salted Fish Head & Tofu Soup – For Cooling Off

Friday, May 6, 2011

Since it's the general election's 'cooling-off day' today, I thought I'd feature a recipe that's well-known for its 'cooling' effect: Salted Fish Head & Tofu Soup. This is a classic soup that the Cantonese – who know an awful lot about soups – make when they feel that there's too much 'heat' in the body. Having downed a big bowl yesterday, I'm now cool as a cucumber whilst I meditate on the most keenly contested general elections in Singapore since the 1960s.

Democracy is a funny thing. In a company, no one would ever dream of asking the tea lady who should be the CEO. That's because no one thinks the tea lady could possibly know anything about who should run the company. Yet, this same tea lady has a say in who runs the country, which is a far more complex issue. She has one vote, same as everyone else be they doctors, hawkers, economists or whatever.

Is everyone equally capable of analyzing what's best for himself or his country? Of course not, because there's always the village idiot who knows diddly squat. And yet, people go to war and die so that the village idiot gets to vote, so that he has a say in who runs the village. One man one vote, no matter what. Everyone is so sold on the idea it's considered a god-given right.

The US, the torchbearer of democracy, had a literacy test for voters till as recently as 1965. Americans who couldn't read weren't allowed to vote. Unsurprisingly, the tests were manipulated so that more difficult ones were given to black people. Such a test would be unthinkable today, and rightly so. The potential for abuse is far too great, and there would be no agreement on what should be tested. But is the principle behind it, that some people are incapable of making what is essentially a complex decision, so wrong?

A democracy is only as good as its people and unfortunately, village idiots are like cockroaches – there's never just one. Democracy isn't the panacea that many people think it is. It's just the lesser of all evils. Better a democracy with its inherent flaw than a fascist or socialist government. Or a monarchy with its usual delights of in-breeding, amongst other things.

Singaporeans are jumping up and down with excitement because most of them will get to vote tomorrow, unlike in previous elections when most constituencies were uncontested, or contested by candidates who were an embarrassment to themselves. Some voters are anti-PAP; others are anti-opposition. And then there's me, who's anti-voters. As Taiwanese author, Lung Ying Tai, said in Fortunately, I'm not Singaporean: The government is a reflection of its people – '什么样的人民有什么样的政府'. The Workers' Party talks about creating a 'first world parliament'. Do we have a first world electorate in the first place?

Related posts:
Chicken-Wing NTUC Chicken The 'Mee Siam Mai
Hum' Mystery
Ayam Panggang

Ayam Panggang – Grilling the Chicken

Tuesday, May 3, 2011

The hallmark of a good roast chicken is crispy skin, right? Nah, not necessarily. Crispy skin requires hours of air-drying and I can't be bothered most of the time. It's good enough for me if the skin is nicely browned so that there's a 'roasty' aroma.

What? That's good but not very sexy? Ok, let's sex it up a bit.

Lather the tanned chook with lots of sambal that's full of spices and enriched with coconut milk, then stick it back in the oven. As the spicy paste bubbles away merrily in the heat, it caramelizes and forms a crust, transforming the ordinary roast chicken into – tadaa! – Ayam Panggang. How's that?

What? 'Flavour' is only skin deep? Banish the thought! The chicken is marinated with the sambal for a whole day before it's roasted. The meat is infused, right down to the bone, with the fragrance of lemon grass, kaffir lime leaves, galangal, coriander seeds, shallots, belachan, white pepper . . . . Happy now?

Whilst I don't air-dry the chicken for Ayam Panggang, I do dry it in the oven. I roast the bird at a low temperature – 130°C or so – for about 25 minutes. The heat is too low to cook the bird much but it dries out the skin quite well. I then crank up the temperature to 230°C and the skin, already dry, browns nicely in about 15 minutes. Meanwhile, the meat is just cooked and the breast still moist.

To get the ideal combination of brown skin and juicy meat, the roasting time, temperature and size of the chicken are crucial considerations. The type of bird chosen is also important. For Ayam Panggang, I prefer to use a regular chook that's tender and juicy as it is, and doesn't require brining to tenderize and moisturize the meat. A brine would make non-organic chicken too soft, I think, and is better suited for organic birds with drier, firmer meat.

So, I was saying the other day about the chicken from NTUC . . . . Let's give it a good grilling this Saturday, shall we?

Check these out:
Salted Fish &
Tofu Soup
Chicken-Wing NTUC Chicken
The 'Mee Siam Mai
Hum' Mystery