Mee Siam (Spicy Rice Vermicelli) | KitchenTigress

Mee Siam (Spicy Rice Vermicelli)


The mee siam recipe I'm sharing is from Cooking for the President.

When Wee Kim Wee was an ambassador in Malaysia and Japan, Mrs Wee's cooking took Tokyo and KL by storm (according to the cookbook). She invited 500 guests at a time, and laid out an entire spread of Nyonya delicacies.

Mee siam was one of the guests' firm favourites, along with sambal udang and chicken satay.

The magic in Mrs Wee's mee siam is the bee hoon made with a special ingredient: coconut milk. Thick, freshly squeezed milk is fried till all the water evaporates, leaving nicely browned curds and coconut oil. I tell ya, this stuff smells like tropical paradise on steroids.

The coconut oil is then used to fry dried chillies, shallots, belachan and taucheo. This aromatic, spicy paste is mixed with the coconut curds, plus another not-found-in-other-recipes ingredient: tomato ketchup. Finally, it's tossed with coarse bee hoon

Mrs Wee's dry mee siam is nothing short of presidential. It's so good it can be totally eaten on its own, but it's even better with mee siam sauce that's made with assam gelugoh to give it the right type of sourness.
"The sourness, saltiness and sweetness of the sauce are so balanced that none of them dominate. The sauce is more savoury than sweet. The assam (tamarind) flavour in the sauce is assertive, but not sharp. Towchew (preserved brown soya bean paste) and prawn flavour are essential, but not obtrusively dominant."
Cooking for the President, by Wee Eng Hwa

All those recipes that have only assam jawa or worse, don't have assam anything at all (like LKY's mother's), chuck 'em in the bin.

If you're not on Mrs or Ms Wee's rarefied guest list, never mind. You now have her recipe for mee siam (and sambal udang).

SOK HIONG'S MEE SIAM (NYONYA SPICY RICE VERMICELLI)
Source: Cooking for the President, by Wee Eng Hwa
(Recipe for 12 full size portions, or 20-25 small portions)
Bee hoon
1 kg coarse dried bee hoon (Chinese rice vermicelli)
6 large pieces firm beancurd (960 g)
vegetable oil for deep-frying
540 ml fresh undiluted coconut milk (2¼ cups)
or 1 kg grated coconut, squeeze for 480 ml "1st milk", plus cream of 480 ml "2nd milk"
40 g dried chillies
soak in warm water till soft, about 30 minutes; squeeze dry
375 g shallots
peel, wash, and pound with dried chillies till fine
8 g belachan
toast till dry and pound till fine to yield 2 tsp powder
90 g light brown taucheo (fermented soya beans) paste
130 ml tomato ketchup
salt to taste, about 1 tbsp
Sauce
40 g dried chillies
soak in warm water till soft, about 30 minutes; squeeze dry
375 g shallots
peel, wash and pound with dried chillies till fine
12 g belachan
toast till dry and pound till fine to yield 1 tbsp powder
120 g light brown taucheo (fermented soya beans) paste
50 prawns weighing about 1 kg prawns
2 pieces assam gelugoh (tamarind skin), adjust to taste (I used 8 pieces)
60 g assam jawa (tamarind paste)
80 g sugar
2 tsp salt
Finishing touch
350 g Chinese chives, wash, trim and cut 2 cm long
5 hard-boiled eggs, peel and slice crosswise
10 calamansi limes, halve crosswise and discard seeds

🌶️ This recipe is A LOT OF WORK. I'd suggest setting aside a good 2 hours or so for the first attempt. The good news is, it's quite idiot-proof, and you can make it one day ahead. Have fun!

1. To prepare bee hoon, cook according to package instructions till soft but still very springy. Do not overcook. Refresh in cold water to stop the cooking. Set aside to drain.

2. Halve each piece of beancurd and cut crosswise 5 mm thick. Deep-fry in hot oil over medium-high heat for 5 minutes. Reduce heat to medium-low. Continue frying till lightly golden (mine were a bit too brown). Remove and divide into 2 equal portions.

3. Fry coconut milk over low heat till oil separates and curds form. Increase heat to medium. Fry till curds are medium brown. Drain to separate curds and oil. You should now have about 100 ml coconut oil, 100 g curds, and a dirty wok (unless yours is non-stick or really well seasoned). Set oil aside, grind curds till fine, and wash wok, in any order you like.

4. With coconut oil made, stir-fry dried chillies and shallots over medium to low heat till reddish brown and aromatic. If paste sticks to wok, drizzle with 1 tbsp water, scrape to loosen sticky bits, then continue frying. Add 2 tsp belachan powder and stir through. Push mixture to one side.

5. Put 2 tsp vegetable oil in the middle of the wok. Add 90 g taucheo. Fry till intensely aromatic, adding 1 tbsp water and scraping if it sticks. Stir taucheo and chilli paste together. Turn off heat. Leave till cool. Add tomato ketchup, coconut curds and salt. Mix thoroughly. Add bee hoon and half of fried beancurd. Using (clean) hands, toss till thoroughly mixed. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary. Cover and set aside. Refrigerate if necessary. Allow to come to room temperature before serving.

6. To make sauce, stir-fry dried chillies and shallots in 100 ml vegetable oil over medium to low heat till reddish brown and aromatic. If paste sticks to wok, drizzle with 1 tbsp water, scrape to loosen sticky bits, then continue frying. Add 1 tbsp belachan powder and stir through. Push mixture to one side.

7. Put 1 tbsp vegetable oil in the middle of the wok. Add 120 g taucheo. Fry till intensely aromatic, adding 1 tbsp water and scraping if it sticks. Stir taucheo and chilli paste together. Set aside.

8. Shell prawns, leaving tails on. Devein and wash. Dry-fry shells and heads (together with those from Sambal Udang if making) till red and fragrant. Add enough water to cover, along with assam gelugoh, assam paste, sugar and salt. Bring to a boil and simmer gently, covered, for 15 minutes. If assam paste is not yet disintegrated, mash with spoon and stir through. With a slotted spoon/spatula, remove and discard shells, etc, leaving only stock. Poach prawns in the stock till just cooked. Remove to cool down. Measure stock and top up with water to 1.4 litres. Add fried chilli paste. Stir through. Bring back to a boil. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary. Turn off heat.

9. To serve, heat up sauce if necessary. Place bee hoon in a plate. Add sauce sparingly, about ½ cup for each full-size portion. (Presidential mee siam doesn't swim in lots of sauce, unlike those from hawker centres!) Top with eggs, poached prawns, sambal udang if available, beancurd, and chives. Squeeze lime over mee siam and dig in.